This knackwurst recipe walks you through making a plump, finely ground German sausage that snaps when you bite into it. Traditionally made with veal and pork and smoked over beechwood, this short, plump sausage gets its name from the “knack” sound it makes.
I first learned to make traditional knackwurst while studying charcuterie at the Art Institute of Charleston. And over the years, I’ve adapted the classic recipe with venison, which is a perfect substitute for veal due to its low fat content.
If you love making deer sausage, browse my venison sausage recipes for more ideas. Here we provide the classic veal‑and‑pork method and explain why venison is an excellent substitute if you prefer a wilder, earthier flavor. With the right meat‑to‑fat ratio, cold equipment, and a patient emulsifying process, you’ll achieve the smooth, bologna‑like texture and gentle snap that define great knackwurst.
Key Tips
- Balanced meat‑to‑fat ratio
Use roughly 60% veal or venison and 40% fatty pork shoulder to keep your sausages juicy. For a richer texture, replace about ½ pound of the pork shoulder with pork back fat. - Keep it cold
Chill your grinder and bowl, dice the meat, and keep everything below 60 °F while grinding and mixing. Cold equipment and ingredients prevent fat smearing and ensure a smooth texture. - Grind and mix thoroughly
Use a fine grinding plate and mix until the paste is smooth and tacky. Gradually drizzling in ice‑cold water helps the proteins bind and hydrates the milk powder or buttermilk powder. For a deeper dive into grinding and binding techniques, see how to make venison sausage. - Season properly
Season with black pepper, coriander, mace, nutmeg, paprika, allspice, and garlic powder, plus kosher salt and a bit of pink curing salt. Milk powder binds moisture; use buttermilk powder if you like a tangy edge. For a deeper flavor profile, try toasting the black peppercorns and coriander before grinding. - Smoke or poach
Dry the links on a rack or in the refrigerator, then smoke at 180 °F until the internal temperature hits 150 °F. If you don’t have a smoker, poach them gently in simmering water for about 15 minutes. Avoid boiling, which can cause the casings to split.
Why Use Veal or Venison in Knackwurst?
Classic knackwurst uses veal and pork, producing a mild, creamy flavor. Venison offers a deeper, earthier profile while still emulsifying beautifully with pork fat. Both venison and veal are lean, which let you load up on the delicious pork fat. Whether you choose veal or venison, keep the 60/40 ratio and handle the mixture cold.
I’ve made this recipe with both meats; in the photos I used venison and wild boar, giving the sausages a darker color and a bolder taste. Choose the meat that suits your pantry and palate. If you’re looking for more ways to use ground deer meat, my ground venison recipes guide is a great place to start.
Step‑by‑Step Method
Ingredients and prep
Gather the ingredients listed in the recipe card below. Soak natural hog casings and chill your grinder parts, bowl and stuffer for at least 30 minutes. Dice the veal or venison and pork shoulder, combine them with all of the dry seasonings and milk powder, and refrigerate until cold.
Grind and mix
Grind the seasoned meat mixture through the small die of your grinder into a chilled bowl. Working quickly prevents the fat from smearing. Transfer the ground meat to a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (or use a sturdy spoon). Slowly drizzle in 1 cup of ice‑cold water, mixing until the sausage paste becomes smooth and tacky. The mixture should feel sticky to the touch and hold together; stop mixing if it starts to warm. Fry a small portion in a skillet to taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Stuff and dry
Load a length of soaked casing onto the sausage stuffer nozzle. Feed the tacky paste through, taking care to avoid air pockets, and twist the links into 4‑ to 6‑inch lengths. Transfer the sausages to a wire rack set over a sheet pan or hang them in the refrigerator. Let them dry for several hours or overnight. This step forms a pellicle (a slightly tacky surface that helps smoke adhere).
Smoke and serve
Preheat your smoker to 180 °F and add a mild wood like beech or apple. Smoke the sausages until they reach an internal temperature of 150 °F; this usually takes an hour or two, depending on your smoker. Immediately shock the sausages in ice‑cold water for about 2 minutes to stop the cooking and firm the casing, then dry and refrigerate. To serve, gently reheat and enjoy on a crusty roll with mustard and homemade sauerkraut or slice into stews and salads. Cooked sausages will keep for roughly 7 days in the refrigerator or can be frozen for several months.
Frequently Asked Questions
Classic knackwurst is made from a smooth emulsion of veal and pork with a high fat content. In this recipe you can substitute lean venison for veal; just keep the 60/40 ratio of meat to pork shoulder/fat.
Traditional knackwurst is smoked at a low temperature (around 180 °F) until fully cooked, then quickly chilled. You can also poach the sausages in simmering (not boiling) water if you don’t have a smoker.
Bratwurst is generally coarser and longer, and it’s often sold uncured and unsmoked. Knackwurst, by contrast, is shorter, plumper and finely ground; it’s typically smoked and has the signature “knack” when you bite into it.
Smoking and poaching are the common ways to cool knackwurst. You can also use a combination of both methods by cold smoking the sausages and finishing them by poaching.
You can attempt a leaner version, but the texture will suffer. Veal or venison alone won’t provide enough fat to emulsify properly. If you need to avoid pork, add back fat from another source, such as beef fat.
More Venison Sausage Recipes
If you make this knackwurst recipe, please leave a review if you have a few minutes. If you have any cooking questions or want to share your latest venison dishes, give me a shout on Instagram @larry__white.
Knackwurst (Knockwurst)
Ingredients
- 3 lb venison or lean veal, diced
- 2 lb fatty pork shoulder, diced
- 3 tbsp kosher salt (about 40 grams)
- 1 tsp pink curing salt (Prague Powder #1)
- 1 tbsp ground black pepper
- ¾ tsp ground coriander
- ¾ tsp ground mace
- ½ tsp ground nutmeg
- 1 tbsp sweet paprika
- ¼ tsp allspice
- ½ tsp garlic powder
- 1 cup non‑fat milk powder (or buttermilk powder)
- 1 cup ice‑cold water
- Natural hog casings (32–35 mm, rinsed and soaked)
Instructions
- Prep: Chill equipment, soak casings and combine the diced meats with all dry seasonings and milk powder. Refrigerate until cold.
- Grind and Mix: Grind the seasoned meat through a fine die into a cold bowl. Mix in the ice‑cold water until the paste is smooth and tacky, then fry a small patty to taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
- Stuff and Dry: Stuff the paste into soaked casings and twist into 4‑ to 6‑inch links. Dry the links on a rack or hang them in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
- Smoke and Shock: Smoke at 180 °F until the internal temperature reaches 150 °F. Then submerge the sausages in ice water for about 2 minutes to stop the cooking. Pat dry.
- Serve: Reheat gently and serve with mustard, sauerkraut, potatoes, and crusty bread. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 7 days or freeze for longer storage
